Bordeaux - more artistry

One would think that between Sundays a church musician might just be tourist, without further artistic experiences from which to draw wisdom. However, a relatively short 2 hour ride in the TGV, France's high speed trains took me to Bordeaux - wines-ville on earth. I rented what i expected to be a mini-subcompact car (and they can really get small here) but it turned out to be a diesel fuel delivery-van kind of car. I could almost stand up in it. Something between an SUV and station wagon. Argh. At least it was a Renault (French), and I didn't look quite as touristy.

There's magic here that combines nature with human nature and artistry. The foundational soil combined with the temperate climate, gentle winds (preventing rot) are perfect for vineyards. It looks just like California (or does CA look like this?!). The combination of this foundational plant rooted in history, produces grapes in abundance, turned into juice becoming one with the other grapes, are fermented, becoming ALIVE, and then with the ingenuity and artistry of the vintner the perfect and unique blend creates a substance that compliments and is a vital pat f a meal, brings pleasure, and some have said: truth. (in vino veritas) Each region produces its general styles that have become tradition, but the uniqueness of individual vintners has to do with the magic of their particular plot (the way the vines produce with the terroire) and the blend. Wait - are talking about wine or a choir?!

It's beautiful country there. Miles and miles of vineyards. Midieval towers and chateaus scattered here and there, ignored like abandoned farm houses in rural Mnnesota. But this place has been all about this for centuries, perhaps beyond. Truly, I felt as if I was standing as modern witness that we are specs in time compared to the grand picture.

I stayed near a small village just north of Bordeaux: St. Andre du Cubsac/St Gervais in an absolutely lovely B and B IN THE COUNTY, out f the main stream of cliche wine makers. Over looking the river valley, ruins, chateaus, and miles and miles of vineyards. Astonishing and peaceful. (And only 40 Euros a night - about 60 bucks!). Mme May (the owner) was an absolutely lovely person, and I couldn't get over the beauty of this place.

About a mile down the road was Chateaux Lagatte, run by the Affatato family. This chateaux dates back to 1640, and is now run by Michael Affatato - who grew up in: BROOKLYN! I had an appointment to meet with him my second day there. He was fantastic. I heard the whole story of the chateau, his life, and the process of wines. The top of his chateau had a small balcony on the roof, and we went up there and he pointed out their plots - one of which dated back to the 1600's. He then took me all though the plant, we tasted from the barrels, then went in their house, he cleared the table, cut up some sausage and cheese and we tasted all five of the wines they make. A very kind and generous person who took me in and educated me. This is not about profit - it's about artistry, its all about connection to something much bigger. (Wait are we talking about choir and/or congregations again?)

It's a good thing because the first day I thought what I would do was go from vintner to vintner and taste - like we had done in California not too long ago. There were chateaus (merely a name for "place" they're not all castles) about every 50 feet with signs beconing people to come taste and buy. I finally pulled into one which had a car or two in the lot. Carefully went to the door, nervously opened it and walked in. Geez. I was in someone's kitchen, and office - messy desk and all. A surprised older women came out wearing an apron - I nervously asked: "Degustation?" (tasting?). She answered "Oui", went over to the messy desk, cleared a spot and put a glass on it, pulled out an unopened bottle, corked it and poured a bit. I politely tasted trying to look like I knew what I was doing. "Nice" I said (not being entirely truthful). She showed me a list - about 6 Euros a bottle (about $8). I asked if there were others, and she pulled out another bottle - also unopened. I said "No, not if it's not open - please". She replied "For you, Monsieur, of course." and POP. I tasted that, thanked her, and got out of there. I should have bought one just to be polite. I didn't do anymore of that kind of visit. It was off season and everyone would have to cork a new bottle for me, and I really couldn't buy.

But the food, the wines I had with that food, and Michael Affatato all educated me to the wonderful things there. In two days I drove all over the Bourg area, Blaye, and on the other side of the river, the Medoc region with different soil and kind of wine. I tasted with meals, and bought a bottle from these regions to taste in my room later. The Medos wines are meatier, more tannins, and the good steak wines. To the south, souterns and sweet wines. The Bourg/Blye region, where I stayed, more fruit forward and gentle. They are my favorite, although next time I have a steak, I'm going to ask about their Medoc selections...

Artistry; history; connection. MMMMMMMMM.